V1 Launch site in 15mm
#1
The Flames of War 3.0 Open Fire starter set included a V1 buzzbomb and launcher. It plays no role in the game, except as decoration. It has been floated around on my modeling desk for eighteen months, and I've broken the engine off the V1 at least four times. I need to make this into terrain and have done.

Historically, V1 launch sites were at first fairly large and complex affairs with 'ski' shaped storage hangers.  The sites had a supply of V1s (with wings detached), fuel, launch bunker, etc.  The Allies spotted these with aerial reconnaissance and bombed them to rubble in advance of D-Day. The Nazis rebuilt the launcher sites with a smaller foot print - launcher and launch bunker, with the missiles stored off-site. (Take my historical notes with a grain of salt. I had a book on V1 and V2 launch sites, but it really focused on the V2's.)


I want to make this into a playable piece, not just a diorama, so...
  • the base needs to fit into my 12"x14.75" bankers boxes, and I have some 12"x7" bases pre-cut and with glue dried on the bottom to prevent warping.
  • the launch bunker should be at least 2"x2 1/4", which is minimum size of an objective  in Flame of War. I want launch bunker to be something to fight over, so based on the rules of game, it should be that size.
  • I want the walled-in area around the luncher itself to be big enough to contain medium bases of infantry. Realistic? Eh, but playability is more important to me.

[Image: basicassembly_zps40a69169.jpg]
#2
My dad grew up drawing endless V2-style rockets and became a NASA physicist working on the Apollo program through the International Space Station.  I've always had a fondness for both the V2 and V1 style "rockets".  The simple mechanics of the "buzz-bomb" pulse jet engines on the V1s appeals to me.  (I even saw someone make a homemade pulse jet powered bicycle. A sight to see blazing down an abandoned runway at night. Big Grin)

I haven't seen any V1 terrain before and look forward to seeing your progress. Thanks for the trip down memory lane.

Good luck and happy building. Smile
#3
I got to play FoW a few times. Don't have hardly any models for it and none painted.

One thing I learned, using other people's models is that if terrain takes into consideration the standard base sizes for the game it is tremendously MORE playable. What I'm talking about is areas inside bunkers or revetments. If the open spaces match the widths x lengths of the standard infantry stands for FoW the piece will be so much more enjoyable in play.

Before things are totally glued down it would be a grand idea to tale some FoW stands and check fit them all around the missile and inside the piece. Make the inner dimensions even multiples of normal bases.


#4
[Image: progress1_zps759dfa21.jpg]

Some progress, some setbacks. Ah, yes, this is terrain making.

First, the concrete looks too much like Paint It Gray, Wash it black, drybrush white, but I don't want to add much color, since this should all be pretty new concrete. No lichen would have grown yet. Advice for new concrete?

Pendrake, yes, I planned from the start to put FoW bases into the launch area, so I've put a few of US Infantry models in place. The lunch bunker is solid and glued in place, rather than removable. Its profile is the size of FoW objective marker, so it is a reasonable thing to attempt to capture/defend.

Next, I built a static grass applicator and tested it. I think it is perhaps a little better. It made no difference at all for 8mm grass, and the 2mm grass I used, well, I think it helped, a little. I think I'll need some 4mm grass, but the jury is still out on this one.

Finally, I thought I'd glue down some trees, but I added these after I'd put down some filler to add some gentle rises to the grass. It was a mistake; I'll need to drill down to the wood if I want to add trees.
#5
Progress. I've reglued the trees and applied flock. The static grass thing makes no difference I can see, unfortunately.

[Image: Completed1_zps0c46b8b2.jpg]

[Image: Completed2_zpsa7e7c750.jpg]
#6
I'm kind of surprised that your static grass applicator didn't make a difference. I have one similar that I purchased (still homemade, just not by me) and it makes quite a noticeable improvement. Without seeing it in action, my only thought would be that maybe you aren't holding it close enough to your board?
#7
Or perhaps that your glue is too tacky?
#8
Regarding the static grass, I am holding it about 3-5" above the surface. I am using normal Elmer's white glue, not diluted but fairly thick.

Is the thing supposed charge the grass, or is the grass in the glue attracted to the strainer once it falls in the glue?


The thing is doing something because it gets a pretty good zap when I ground it, so the static charge is there.
#9
(12-30-2014, 07:27 PM)Asdel Wrote: First, the concrete looks too much like Paint It Gray, Wash it black, drybrush white, but I don't want to add much color, since this should all be pretty new concrete. No lichen would have grown yet. Advice for new concrete?

A big slab will be subdivided by expansion joints. And, new concrete dries "splorchy" see photo below, for examples of both:

[Image: 4107k21241b.jpg]


#10
Both. As you scatter the grass, it should fall "in-line" with the magnetic field. Additionally, the grass already in the glue should be attracted to the charger. But 3"-5" is way too far away. Try holding it much closer. Magnetic fields drop off as R^2, so holding the thing at 1.5" will exert a field that is 4X as strong as at 3". The field generated by the typical charger wand is pretty weak, so the closer the better. And I'd dilute the glue a little just to be on the safe side.

And I hate to ask this question, but you are attaching the grounding line to the base of your terrain, yes? You'll probably need to move it to a couple of different locations, because if you get too far away from the grounding peg, the effect is noticeably lessened.
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